The past and the future of Israel lie in the Negev

The paraphrased quotation from David Ben-Gurion encapsulates the two days I recently spent with my fellow Melton Educators, in terms of sights seen, speakers spoken to, and topics talked about. Throughout the trip we immersed ourselves in the southern region of Israel (staying away from what would certainly have been a dull, grey, and boring trip to Eilat), trying to understand the important role that the desert has played in the nation's history and future.

We began at the archaeological site Tel Be'er Sheva, where we studied texts about Avraham and Yitschak's founding of the city nearby (Be'er Sheva) as well as the construction of cities during the biblical era. It was very interesting to intertwine our study of the bible, historical texts, and the physical evidence upon which we stood in order to build a complete picture, more complete than I've ever received in a classroom setting.

From there we moved to the outer edge of Har Hanegev, with a beautiful Arizona-esque panorama, and from there we moved to Kibbutz Sde Boker, where Ben Gurion (former Prime Minister and proponent of desert development) lived out his life after retiring from the government (twice!). We learned a great deal about his progressive plans to bring agriculture to the arid landscape, as well as to populate the huge (relative to the rest of the country) and undeveloped area. From this point, we travelled to the city of Yerucham, an unfortunate result of Ben Gurion's dream. The city was built upon the massive failure of several waves of immigration from Northern Africa and Western Europe immediately following the War of Independance, when the population of Israel doubled in just a few years, without the doubling of manufacturing capabilities, agricultural produce, or employment. The families coming to realize their Zionist dream left behind wealth, friends, and positions of power to be duped into unemployment and homes without electricity, running water, or more than one room. Even today, nearly sixty years later, Yerucham and many cities like it are struggling to survive. What was perhaps the most interesting part of our discussion with the residents we met was that they have civic pride, and are constantly disappointed by the media's (and probably my) portrayal of their city - they believe in the neighbours and and in their future together, regardless of poverty and unemployment that surround them.

We spent a short night at the Isrotel-Ramon Inn (which I highly recommend - nice pool, huge rooms, and MAMMOTH breakfast (which I would be happy to describe in detail for those who enjoy such things)), and left at 4 a.m. for the Ramon crater, the massive geological remnant of a meteor colliding with Earth. We spent about an hour in solitude and complete darkness, and as the sun rose I noticed that even the insects and wildlife of the desert had been silent during the night. We then spent two hours touring and learning about the travels of Eliyahu the prophet through the region, again bringing physical examples to support and explain biblical characters and images. Then it was back to the hotel for the above-mentioned feast and some time to relax/sleep/swim.

We ate lunch with students of Ben Gurion University, in Be'er Sheva, and we talked with them about their experiences living with and tutoring underpriveleged local children (the students are part of a program that encourages social responsibility by offering rent-free apartments (albeit in undesirable neighbourhoods) to students who partake in the described activities). We then moved on to one of seven Bedouin cities in the Negev. The cities were built as a part of an initiative by the Israeli government to either facilitate the tribes' move into the modern world or to control a potentially volatile part of the Arab population (depending on who you ask). The city was unique in that the houses were all modern, but the spaces between and around them were filled with hovels and live animals, as not all of the tribes had agreed to live in the development. We also saw a traditional Bedouin village, which is still without electricity, running water, or roads, which relies on herding and handcrafts for survival. Most interesting was our discussion with two school principals, who described the unique challenges they face in trying to bring their constituents into modernity without losing their nomadic heritage. My favourite line spoken, which I will give here out of context, was that "My school has no Parent-Teachers Association. Every school I know of that had one has closed."

Overall, the trip was great. I feel much closer to my classmates and teachers, had a break from classroom learning, and learned a great deal about a little-known aspect to Israel. After experiencing the history of the Negev ranging from the prehistoric past through to the modern day, I have to agree with Ben Gurion that the region shows immense promise, while at the same time realizing that to this point almost everything that has happened there has been a colossal failure. The region is a bittersweet mix of natural beauty, amazing history, and tragic human pain.